![]() Its odd that your contractor wouldn't be willing to do this for you. You can also hang a small magnet from a string. Sometimes you have to put a receptacle in a cabinet with a 3/4' back panel on top of a 1' wall (plaster and wood lath) and the normal old work boxes wont work because the flapper does go far enough back to grab the wall. There are small magnetic stud finders with a pivoting magnet that dips when over a nail. Zircon is a good brand.Īnother way to find the nails is with a small magnet. It may be possible to search for the nails that attach the wood lath to the studs either with a detector that has a metal mode or one that is designed to detect only metal. Secure your support stick on 1 side of the hole and cut as much as you can. Be aware that there might be horizontal or diagonal bracing in the wall. If you have the rip a lath horizontally (and try to avoid that). If it is wood lath a stud finder will sometimes work but it may be fooled by the inconsistent density of the plaster and the additional density of the wood lath but its worth a try. POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about the level of asbestos. In the stairwell to the basement, which runs along an outside wall, the shiplap is attached to the inside of the exterior wall and the outside only has the thinner wood siding. If it is metal lath you might be able to use the trial and error method but if the material is sound you can use moly bolts that are inserted in a drilled hole and expand when you tighten them. Older Plaster or Rock-Lath walls/ceilings may contain asbestos. Throughout most of the house, the shiplap was nailed to the outside of the exterior walls and the inside was lath and plaster. Your contractor should know or you can tell by removing an electrical box cover plate. To use a detector you must determine if the lath is wood or metal. ![]() ![]() Each wall frame is covered in lath, tacked at the studs. An electrical receptacle might give you the location of one stud to sue as a reference point. The lath and plaster process involves nailing narrow strips of wood horizontally across the wall studs. This might only get you to within a few inches of the stud. Thanks for that Apart from a box room and a wee bathroom adding some inches to the exterior walls shouldn't be a problem in most rooms, though as you say it will be a lot of work: there will be a fair bit of stuff like cornices, architraves & fire surrounds to replace/move.The simplest way is to knock on the wall until it doesn't sound hollow. Many houses have walls made of lath and plaster and some dont have insulation between the interior wall and the sheathing. If rooms are big enough you don,t even need to rip out old plaster +lathes-just build a modern house inside it inside it ?Īpply vapour barrier to the frames before you lift them up into place and you got full damp proofing at same time and a gap for the old walls to breath into the roof spaceĪ house that old will be built with a cold roof and lots of drafts in the loft area -so you kill all problems at same timeĪlso will be a job you can do while still living in it ,a bit at a time if you wishįilling the gap with anything will stop the air flow to the roof you must have with this type of old house -you will make more damp problems ![]() We used a table saw to rip the tongue edge of the shiplap. To get the trim piece to sit on top of the last piece of shiplap we had to cut the tongue off the last piece before nailing it to the wall. Maybe a bigger job then you wanted but is the right way to go long term and also a chance to replace electrics etc at same time and have house with modern insulation stds To give our 3/4 wall a finished look we added a simple trim piece to the top edge. Maybe time to think about getting rid of the lathe and plaster and build stud walls -providing rooms are not very small
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